Civil War fashion revisited in Heritage Center programs

By Linda Braden Albert
of The Daily Times Staff

Being properly attired has always been a concern for women, but our female counterparts from the Civil War era probably had a rather difficult time getting all those unmentionables in place under their hoop skirts. And what about those lovely fans? What tales do they tell?

Two programs held June 28 at the Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center, in Townsend, answered questions about these staples of the Civil War woman's wardrobe. Sandra Augustus, of Lenoir City, presented "Hoop Skirts and Underpinnings: Clothing of the Civil War Woman" and members of the Ellen Renshaw House Chapter 2624 United Daughters of the Confederacy, Knoxville, presented "The Language of the Fan" -- the Civil War woman's use of the fan in social situations. These live exhibitions were held in conjunction with the traveling exhibition "Hoofbeats in the Heartland: Civil War Cavalry" from the Tennessee State Museum, which explores the impact of mounted warfare in the state during the Civil War.

Augustus, dressed appropriately for the 1860s, explained the layers of underclothing worn by a Civil War woman. Using a dress form, Augustus gradually added drawers, chemise, corset, under petticoat, hoop, over petticoat and under sleeves. Each layer had its own particular function.

Fans, according to the Ellen Renshaw House Chapter 2624 UDC members Priscilla Watts, Teresa Smith and Darlene Hammond, had a language all their own. For example, fanning slowly meant, "I am married," but fanning quickly meant, "I am engaged." Putting the handle of the fan to the lips conveyed the message, "Kiss me," while drawing the closed fan through the palm of the hand meant, "I hate you."

Nancy Williams, marketing director, Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center, said, a total of 73 visitors enjoyed these two programs and a noon program by Bill Fowler, "An Overview: The Civil War in East Tennessee and Blount County."

"Overall interest was excellent, and visitors asked many questions," Williams said. "There seems to be a great deal of interest in East Tennessee in Civil War history."

The final weekend for auditorium presentations is July 12. Cades Cove Preservation Association members will present "Civil War Impact on Cades Cove" (Inez Adams); "War Within the Family: The Russell Gregory Story" (Mary Gregory); and "Daniel Davis Foute" (Dave Post). In addition, "Thomas at Chickamauga" will be presented by Steve Wilson. There is no charge for the presentations, though regular admission applies to the museum experience, including "Hoofbeats in the Heartland."

The Heritage Center is also presenting the McClung Museum video production of "The Battle of Knoxville" throughout the exhibit period.

"Hoofbeats in the Heartland," sponsored by Citizens Bank of Blount County, will continue at the Heritage Center through July 16. For more information, call 448-0044.